• Sciences du Vivant/Ecologie, Environnement
  
• Planète et Univers/Océan, Atmosphère
  
• Sciences de l'environnement
  
• Sciences de l'ingénieur/Mécanique/Mécanique des fluides
  
• Physique/Mécanique/Mécanique des fluides
  
• Sciences de l'environnement/Biodiversité et Ecologie
  
• Physique/Physique/Physique Atmosphérique et Océanique
  

This paper reports on two three-months field experiments carried out in the Ouano lagoon, New Caledonia. This channel-type lagoon, exposed to meso-tides, south pacific swells and trade winds, has been monitored thanks to a network of currents profilers to understand the dynamics of the lagoon waters. Four typical circulation patterns have been identified, covering all together more than 90% of the survey period. These patterns are mainly driven by the waves and wind features. In particular, obliquely incident waves or strong winds blowing over a sufficient period are able to reverse the typical circulation pattern. The analysis of the vertical structure of the currents through passages shows the regular presence of a nearly linear vertical shear within the water column.

This communication reports on a field experiments carried out on the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The analysis is based on a cross-shore network of pressure sensors deployed across the reef flat and within the lagoon. Confirming existing observations, the measurements show the strong filtering role of the reef barrier on the incoming wave energy The swell energy is dissipated and transferred toward lower frequencies, including the so-called infragravity (IG) and very low frequency (VLF) waves. During energetic event (Hs=4.2m), IG and VLF significant wave heights on the reef flat are observed to reach 1.2 and 0.7m, respectively. A variety of long waves modes are observed on the reef, combining standing and progressive-dissipative modes. In any cases, the VLF and IG waves are much more developed over and close to the reef flat than further inside the lagoon.

A high-resolution 2D barotropic tidal model was developed for the Gulf of Gabes and used to characterise hydrodynamic processes and tidal dynamics. The model is based on the Regional Ocean Modelling System. It is forced at the open boundaries by the semidiurnal M2 and S2 astronomical components while meteorological forcing has been neglected. The model results show good agreement with observations confirming that it reproduces the gulf's main tidal characteristics reasonably well. In fact, the simulated semidiurnal tidal components M2 and S2 generate important sea level variations and coastal currents. Tidal propagation is directed to the gulf's western sector while tidal resonance occurs in its inner sector where the M2 and S2 amplitudes are about 50 and 36 cm, respectively. Phase maxima (170°-185°) are located inside Boughrara Lagoon for both the simulated M2 and S2 tides. The strongest currents are found in shallow coastal regions and at the lagoon's western inlet. During spring tides,currents are around 10-20 cm s-1 in the gulf center and up to 50 cm s-1 inside the lagoon

This manuscript presents a combined experimental and numerical study of the impact of cross-reef fluxes on coral reef lagoon dynamics. The selected field site is the Ouano Lagoon (New Caledonia Island, France) in the South Western Pacific Ocean. Measurements of wave transformation above the reef and current profiles through passages and reef openings have been carried out during a 3-month survey. Data analysis reveals the preponderant roles played by both tides and waves on the lagoon dynamics. Based on field data, a simple parameterization of cross-reef fluxes is implemented in a coastal lagoon circulation model and a satisfactory agreement is found between parameterized model and field results. The model is thus used as a numerical experimental tool in order to analyse the cross-reef flows’ possible influence on a narrow lagoon dynamics. The results highlight the importance of cross-reef fluxes induced by wave breaking over the reef barrier on the whole lagoon circulation and water properties.